{"id":12104,"date":"2025-12-30T23:15:00","date_gmt":"2025-12-30T21:15:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/?p=12104"},"modified":"2026-02-26T11:23:44","modified_gmt":"2026-02-26T09:23:44","slug":"12104","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/en\/12104\/","title":{"rendered":"Egy \u00e9jszaka, k\u00e9t pecs\u00e9t k\u00f6z\u00f6tt"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Az el\u0151z\u0151 r\u00e9szek tartalm\u00e1b\u00f3l:&nbsp;<\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">k\u00e9t hete pr\u00f3b\u00e1lom meghosszabb\u00edtani az egyiptomi tart\u00f3zkod\u00e1st. Kifizetett apartman m\u00e1rciusig, a hivatal meg minden nap \u00faj fejezetet k\u00e9r a t\u00f6rt\u00e9nethez: hol egy pap\u00edr, hol egy pecs\u00e9t, hol egy \u201em\u00e9g egy m\u00e1solat\u201d. Tegnap d\u00e9lut\u00e1n feladtam. Ma reggel viszont meg\u00e9rkeztem Isztambulba, szilveszter ut\u00e1n visszamegyek Hurghad\u00e1ba, \u00e9s abban rem\u00e9nykedem, hogy a bel\u00e9p\u00e9sn\u00e9l kapok egy friss v\u00edzumpecs\u00e9tet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a data-flickr-embed='true' href='https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/lvarga\/albums\/72177720323319246\/' title='Istanbul by Laszlo8360, on Flickr'><img src='https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/65535\/54243676667_9bb411b077_c.jpg' width='800' height='600' alt='20250103_182638'><\/a><script async src='https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/assets\/client-code.js' charset='utf-8'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong><kbd><mark style=\"background-color:rgba(0, 0, 0, 0)\" class=\"has-inline-color has-pale-cyan-blue-color\">A k\u00e9p sz\u00e9l\u00e9re val\u00f3 kattint\u00e1ssal a fot\u00f3album lapozhat\u00f3.<\/mark><\/kbd><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Isztambul, 2025.12.30<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>16:22 \u2013 V\u00e9gre megtal\u00e1ltam.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Offline t\u00e9rk\u00e9ppel, k\u00f6z\u00e9pkorb\u00f3l itt felejtett kanyarg\u00f3s utc\u00e1k k\u00f6z\u00f6tt nem volt egyszer\u0171 eljutni oda, ahol m\u00e9g h\u00e1zsz\u00e1m sincs. De nem hazudtak: t\u00e9nyleg k\u00e9t percre van a K\u00e9k mecsett\u0151l. K\u00e9t perc, ha nem a \u201ek\u00e9t perc, csak megn\u00e9zem ezt az ajt\u00f3t is\u201d m\u00f3dban s\u00e9t\u00e1lsz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>16:43 \u2013 Egy este erej\u00e9ig v\u00e1llalhat\u00f3.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A sz\u00e1ll\u00e1s alapvet\u0151en rendben van: nem Hilton, de tiszta, korrekt, \u00e9s nem pr\u00f3b\u00e1l \u00fagy tenni, mintha Hilton lenne, ami m\u00e1r f\u00e9l siker.<br>Egyetlen apr\u00f3s\u00e1g hi\u00e1nyzott: <em>hol van pontosan?<\/em> Melyik \u00e9tterem f\u00f6l\u00f6tt a negyediken, melyik ajt\u00f3, ki v\u00e1r, honnan kell sejteni, hogy az a kapucseng\u0151 nem egy kebabos\u00e9. Az eff\u00e9le \u201eapr\u00f3s\u00e1gok\u201d azok, amikt\u0151l a turista hirtelen r\u00e1d\u00f6bben: \u0151 val\u00f3j\u00e1ban egy b\u0151r\u00f6ndre ragasztott k\u00e9rd\u0151jel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>17:00 \u2013 A l\u00e9nyeg: van hol aludnom.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Fels\u0151 \u00e1gy. Fel\u00fclni nem lehet, csak l\u00e9tezni. A plafon nedves a p\u00e1r\u00e1t\u00f3l. A WC \u00e9s a zuhany nem z\u00e1rhat\u00f3.<br>Viszont: takar\u00edtanak. Szell\u0151ztetnek. \u00c9s mivel mell\u00e9kutca, a v\u00e1ros zaja nem k\u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00f6tt be a szob\u00e1ba. A turist\u00e1k mormog\u00e1sa, a keresked\u0151k invit\u00e1l\u00e1sa megmaradt ott, ahol a helye van: kint, a macskak\u00f6v\u00f6n.<br>A vend\u00e9gl\u00e1t\u00f3 b\u00e1csi kedves. Az alattam l\u00e9v\u0151 \u00e1gy horkol. K\u00e9szp\u00e9nzt mondhattak volna el\u0151re, de h\u00e1t Isztambulban az inform\u00e1ci\u00f3 n\u00e9ha csak egy opcion\u00e1lis f\u0171szer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>17:15 \u2013 \u00c1r-ellen\u0151rz\u00e9s, avagy a v\u00e1ros fejl\u0151dik.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Isztambul \u00e1rai nem v\u00e9szesek. Kicsit Barcelona alatt, de Barcelona-jelleg\u0171 l\u00e1tnival\u00f3kkal Eur\u00f3pa keleti partj\u00e1n.<br>Tavaly m\u00e9g 15 l\u00edra volt a szez\u00e1millat\u00fa, roppan\u00f3s perecem, id\u00e9n 20. A street food kifejez\u00e9st itt t\u00e9nyleg sz\u00f3 szerint is lehet \u00e9rteni: utc\u00e1n eszed, utc\u00e1ban eml\u00e9kszel r\u00e1.<br>A villamosn\u00e1l megint eszembe jutott: mindig a napijegy a legpraktikusabb. Egy vonaljegy nagyj\u00e1b\u00f3l egy eur\u00f3, \u00e9s a peronok t\u00f6bbs\u00e9g\u00e9n m\u00e1r m\u0171k\u00f6dik a \u201ecsak \u00e9rints \u00e9s haladj\u201d fizet\u00e9s. Tavaly ilyesmi alig volt. Ez a v\u00e1ros\u2026 r\u00e1kapcsol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>17:30 \u2013 Ism\u00e9tl\u0151 k\u00f6r.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ma este v\u00e9gigj\u00e1rom a tavalyi ittl\u00e9tem ikonikus helyeit. \u00c1tmegyek villamossal a t\u00falpartra. Szeretek \u00edgy visszamenni a saj\u00e1t nyomaimhoz: ellen\u0151rizni, hogy m\u00e9g ott vannak-e, vagy k\u00f6zben elmosta \u0151ket a v\u00e1ros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>18:00 \u2013 Ablakhoz pr\u00e9sel\u0151dve.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Az Aranyszarv-\u00f6b\u00f6l nekem napkelte-filterrel a legjobb. Olyankor lemaradnak a k\u00e9pr\u0151l a kipufog\u00f3k \u00e9s a selfiz\u0151 t\u00f6megek. Maradnak a s\u00e9tahaj\u00f3k z\u00e1szl\u00f3i, a horg\u00e1szok botjai, \u00e9s a vir\u00e1g\u00e1rus n\u00e9ni mosolya a h\u00edd felett. Mintha Isztambul ilyenkor egy pillanatra visszavenn\u00e9 mag\u00e1t emberi m\u00e9retre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>18:12 \u2013 Tark\u00e1ra \u00e9nekelt teraszok.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A Galata-toronyhoz felmenni k\u00fcl\u00f6n program. S\u0151t: m\u0171v\u00e9szlelk\u0171eknek k\u00f6telez\u0151 elt\u00e9vedni a meredek sik\u00e1torokban.<br>Mindenki lefot\u00f3zza a hossz\u00fa l\u00e9pcs\u0151sort alulr\u00f3l felfel\u00e9. \u00c9n mell\u00e9 tenn\u00e9k egy m\u00e1sik k\u00e9pet is: ugyanazok az arcok, fent a kih\u00edv\u00e1s tetej\u00e9n. A turistafot\u00f3 ritk\u00e1n mutatja a kimer\u00fclts\u00e9get, pedig az a v\u00e1ros egyik hivatalos nyelve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>18:28 \u2013 Itt felejtett term\u00e9szetess\u00e9g.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A \u201ekereng\u0151 dervisek m\u00fazeuma\u201d val\u00f3j\u00e1ban egy pici, vir\u00e1gos kert, ami mellett majdnem mindenki elmegy.<br>ezen a ponton k\u00e1r, hogy nem tervezek el\u0151re. A hely igazi bev\u00e9tele nem a n\u00e9h\u00e1ny terem, hanem az esti t\u00e1ncbemutat\u00f3. Gyan\u00edtom, enn\u00e9l olcs\u00f3bb \u00e9s hitelesebb \u00e9lm\u00e9ny kev\u00e9s van a k\u00f6rny\u00e9ken. Legk\u00f6zelebb\u2026 persze\u2026 Mindig van legk\u00f6zelebb?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>18:35 \u2013 Ebben az udvarban, nem a retro villamos csilingel.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Egy olasz katolikus templom a s\u00e9t\u00e1l\u00f3utca k\u00f6zel\u00e9ben. Fentr\u0151l m\u00e1r csak egy kapualj l\u00e1tszik k\u00e9t baklava k\u00f6z\u00f6tt, \u00e9s a figyelmet elviszi a fagyis j\u00e1t\u00e9koss\u00e1ga.<br>Pedig odabent nem templom-\u00e9rz\u00e9s van, ink\u00e1bb csend-sziget a hotelek \u00e1rny\u00e9k\u00e1ban. \u00c9n csak az\u00e9rt h\u00edvom \u201eolasz templomnak\u201d, mert olaszok \u00e9p\u00edtett\u00e9k a maguk k\u00e9tsz\u00e1z \u00e9vvel ezel\u0151tti st\u00edlus\u00e1ban. A v\u00e1ros meg r\u00e1hagyta: legyen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>18:52 \u2013 T\u00f6megk\u00f6z\u00e9ppont.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A \u201er\u00e9gen minden jobb volt\u201d vall\u00e1s\u00faak szerint a Taksim t\u00e9r szebb volt az \u00faj nagy mecset n\u00e9lk\u00fcl. \u00c9rtem. A vil\u00e1g is szebb volt t\u00fal\u00e9p\u00edtetts\u00e9g n\u00e9lk\u00fcl.<br>Viszont az\u00f3ta az aut\u00f3kat r\u00e9szben kiterelt\u00e9k, \u00e9s a s\u00e9t\u00e1l\u00f3 \u00f6vezet h\u00f6mp\u00f6lyg\u00e9se most sz\u00e9tter\u00fcl: metr\u00f3, sikl\u00f3, park, v\u00edzipip\u00e1z\u00f3k, \u00e9s az Istiklal, mint egy foly\u00f3, ami nem k\u00e9r enged\u00e9lyt az \u00e1raml\u00e1shoz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>20:00 \u2013 Akkor milyen lett volna a cs\u00edp\u0151s?!<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tavaly is voltam ebben az indiai \u00e9tteremben. Norm\u00e1lis \u00e1r, kedves emberek, korrekt hely.<br>\u00c9s most j\u00f6n a felirat, amit a bej\u00e1ratra tenn\u00e9k: <strong>Nem szabad cs\u00edp\u0151set k\u00e9rni.<br><\/strong>Mi magyarok szeretj\u00fck az er\u0151set, de itt a \u201epik\u00e1ns\u201d nem azt jelenti, hogy \u201ekicsit cs\u00edp\u201d. Azt jelenti, hogy: <em>ma este megtudod, hol v\u00e9gz\u0151dik a nyelved \u00e9s hol kezd\u0151dik a sorsod.<br><\/em>\u00c9s k\u00f6zben eszembe jutott valami a kifinomults\u00e1gr\u00f3l. A cs\u00edp\u0151set a sz\u00e1nk elej\u00e9vel \u00e9rezz\u00fck, de aki \u00fagy eszik, mintha \u00fcld\u00f6zn\u00e9 a holnap bizonytalans\u00e1ga, az \u00e1tlap\u00e1tolja az \u00e9telt a gyomr\u00e1ba. Alig tal\u00e1lkozik az \u00edzlel\u0151bimb\u00f3kkal.<br>A kifinomult n\u00e9pek meg\u2026 megforgatj\u00e1k az \u00edzeket, id\u0151t adnak a falatnak.<br>Ma este \u00e9n valahol a kett\u0151 k\u00f6z\u00f6tt \u00e1lltam: udvariasan k\u00f6nnyeztem, \u00e9s h\u0151siesen ittam r\u00e1 vizet, <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>20:45 \u2013 F\u00e9lelmek \u00e9s megk\u00fczd\u00e9sek.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Agg\u00f3dom magam\u00e9rt, amikor azon kapom magam, hogy t\u00fal sokat k\u00e9rdezek a mesters\u00e9ges intelligenci\u00e1t\u00f3l. F\u00fcgg\u0151s\u00e9ggyan\u00fas.<br>A cigivel egyszer m\u00e1r bev\u00e1lt egy strat\u00e9gia: elz\u00e1rtam magam el\u0151l. Csak bulikab\u00e1t-zsebben l\u00e9tezett. Napi szinten nem volt k\u00e9zn\u00e9l, \u00edgy a k\u00eds\u00e9rt\u00e9s sem j\u00f6tt h\u00e1zhoz.<br>Lehet, hogy a netet kell most bulikab\u00e1tba rakni. Energiatakar\u00e9k m\u00f3d, \u00e9s vele egy\u00fctt mobilnet-off. Ha nem musz\u00e1j, ne legyen k\u00e9zn\u00e9l. Mert az ember n\u00e9ha a saj\u00e1t k\u00edv\u00e1ncsis\u00e1g\u00e1t\u00f3l is elf\u00e1rad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>21:00 \u2013 Ennyi\u00e9rt? Ilyet? Ez igen!<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Egy Oldies nev\u0171 pub a s\u00e9t\u00e1l\u00f3utca k\u00f6zel\u00e9ben. 95 l\u00edr\u00e1\u00e9rt s\u00f6rt adni\u2026 mi\u00e9rt \u00e9ri meg nekik? T\u00e9nyleg a v\u00e9g\u00f6sszeg?<br>K\u00f6zben meg: meglep\u0151en j\u00f3 hangtechnika, val\u00f3di zen\u00e9szek, rendes koncert\u00e9lm\u00e9ny. Isztambul n\u00e9ha \u00fagy dob aj\u00e1nd\u00e9kot, mintha csak mell\u00e9kesen csin\u00e1ln\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>21:47 \u2013 Hirtelen heves es\u0151.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mediterr\u00e1n vid\u00e9k, igen. Itt az es\u0151 nem \u201eesik\u201d, hanem <em>megjelenik<\/em>, \u00e9s r\u00f6gt\u00f6n f\u0151szerepet k\u00e9r.<br>A v\u00e9kony es\u0151kab\u00e1tom j\u00f3 v\u00e9tel volt 50 eur\u00f3\u00e9rt: v\u00e1ltoz\u00e9kony id\u0151ben alapdarab. Hat \u00e9ve b\u00edrja, \u00e9s enn\u00e9l t\u00f6bbet nem is kellett.<br>Ami viszont hi\u00e1nyzik: egy igaz\u00e1n j\u00f3 haj\u00f3s kab\u00e1t. Az a ritka, sz\u00e9p, er\u0151s anyag\u00fa, ami felh\u0151szakad\u00e1sban is sz\u00e1razon tart. F\u00e9l \u00e9ve volt n\u00e1lam 150 eur\u00f3. Nem vettem meg. Ezt h\u00edvj\u00e1k ut\u00f3lagos meteorol\u00f3giai megb\u00e1n\u00e1snak.<br>A cip\u0151 meg\u2026 az utaz\u00f3k azt mondj\u00e1k, t\u00f6k\u00e9letesen v\u00edz\u00e1ll\u00f3 cip\u0151 nincs, mert a teteje mind nyitott. Viszont l\u00e9tezik gumi zokni. Na, azt \u00e9n sehol sem tal\u00e1lom.<br>A cip\u0151m reggelig nem sz\u00e1rad meg. \u00c9s ezt most m\u00e1r nem trag\u00e9di\u00e1nak, ink\u00e1bb m\u0171fajnak tekintem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>22:55 \u2013 Nincs \u00e9rtelme v\u00e1rni.<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A koncertkocsma ki\u00fcr\u00fclt k\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00f6ttem, az es\u0151 meg nem t\u00e1rgyal. Ennyi er\u0151vel mez\u00edtl\u00e1b is s\u00e9t\u00e1lhatn\u00e9k a hidegben, k\u00e1r r\u00e1m a kab\u00e1t is.<br>Ha \u00fagyis ronggy\u00e1 \u00e1zom, akkor teszem st\u00edlusosan: mintha mindig is azt terveztem volna, hogy isztambuli monszun alatt s\u00e9t\u00e1lok a m\u00e9g mindig forgalmas belv\u00e1rosban. A v\u00e1ros legal\u00e1bb kap t\u0151lem egy jelenetet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>23:09 \u2013 Besz\u00e9ltem!<\/strong><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">An\u00e9lk\u00fcl, hogy k\u00e9rdeztek volna. Idegen emberek el\u0151tt \u00e9n \u00e1ltal\u00e1ban mosolyogva hallgatok, de nem ma.<br>A furcsa sz\u00e1ll\u00e1son besz\u00e9lgettek, \u00e9n meg k\u00f6zbev\u00e1gtam egy bar\u00e1ts\u00e1gos mondattal. \u00c9s ez\u00fattal nem zavart a klasszikus nyit\u00e1ny sem: \u201eHonnan j\u00f6tt\u00e9l?\u201d<br>Nem tudom, mi ford\u00edtott ki kellemesen \u00f6nmagamb\u00f3l: a f\u00e1radts\u00e1g, a cs\u00edp\u0151s, az es\u0151, vagy az, hogy most az \u00e9letem \u00e9pp pecs\u00e9tek k\u00f6z\u00f6tt lebeg.<br>De megt\u00f6rt\u00e9nt. Volt hangom.<br>Holnap megint pap\u00edrok v\u00e1rnak. Ma \u00e9jjel viszont, Isztambulban, legal\u00e1bb egyszer nem csak a v\u00e1ros besz\u00e9lt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-photo is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/flic.kr\/p\/2rPyft4\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/65535\/55015779305_30ab68c54c_c.jpg\" alt=\"20251231_143539\" width=\"800\" height=\"370\" \/><\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"20251230_170258\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/55014890765\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" 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