{"id":9919,"date":"2025-09-05T05:15:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-05T03:15:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/?p=9919"},"modified":"2025-10-15T22:18:12","modified_gmt":"2025-10-15T20:18:12","slug":"9919","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/en\/9919\/","title":{"rendered":"Az\u00fark\u00e9k \u00e9s a l\u00e1ngol\u00f3 k\u00e9m\u00e9nyek \u2014 Port-de-Bouc egy napra"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Port-de-Bouc egyszerre mediterr\u00e1n paradicsom \u00e9s ipari d\u00edszlet: tankerek a horizonton, panellak\u00e1sok a parton, telihold \u00e9s mistral. Jegyzetek az \u00fasz\u00e1sok, vonatok \u00e9s a furcsa kontrasztok k\u00f6z\u00f6tt.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-video is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"20250905_134722_04\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/54768339668\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Port-de-Bouc <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right wp-block-paragraph\"><em>2025.09.05., p\u00e9ntek<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-preformatted\">A mai napnak csak az\u00e9rt lett c\u00e9lja Port-de-Bouc gal\u00e9ri\u00e1ja, hogy ne legyen c\u00e9ltalan. De am\u00fagy \u00e9n b\u00edrom a c\u00e9ltalan napokat is, olyankor minden s\u00falytalan, semmi sem k\u00f6telez\u0151, b\u00e1rmi lehets\u00e9ges. <\/pre>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ez egy kisv\u00e1ros a tengerparton Marseille \u00e9s a Camargue-delta k\u00f6z\u00f6tt. A Rh\u00f4ne foly\u00f3 haj\u00f3z\u00e1si \u00fatvonala itt \u00e9ri el a tengert \u2013 egy\u00fattal ez a Martigues-n\u00e9l l\u00e9v\u0151 bels\u0151 t\u00f3 tengeri bej\u00e1rata is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ez a v\u00e1roska egy rem\u00e9nytemet\u0151. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Az elm\u00falt \u00e9vsz\u00e1zadok sor\u00e1n t\u00f6bbsz\u00f6r terveztek m\u00e1r ide ipari k\u00f6zpontot, jelent\u0151s hal\u00e1szatot, de kb. semmilyen terv nem val\u00f3sult meg. Ez a r\u00e9gi\u00f3 jelent\u0151s iparvid\u00e9k, de egyik l\u00e9tes\u00edtm\u00e9ny sem ehhez a v\u00e1roshoz k\u00f6t\u0151dik. A vonatb\u00f3l \u00e9s a parton is k\u00f6rben\u00e9zve l\u00e1that\u00f3, hogy ipartelepek, kik\u00f6t\u0151k veszik k\u00f6rbe, de ez a hely csak egy csendes kisv\u00e1rosnak t\u0171nik.<br>Nagyon \u00e9rdekes p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul, hogy Port-de-Bouc v\u00e1ra \u2013 ami l\u00e1t\u00f3t\u00e1vols\u00e1gon bel\u00fcl van, a belv\u00e1rosi \u00f6b\u00f6l t\u00falfel\u00e9n \u2013 k\u00f6zigazgat\u00e1silag m\u00e1r Martigues-hez tartozik, \u00e9s a v\u00e1rat nem lehet \u00fagy f\u00e9nyk\u00e9pezni, hogy ne ker\u00fclj\u00f6n r\u00e1 a k\u00e9pre egy olajfinom\u00edt\u00f3 a l\u00e1ngol\u00f3 k\u00e9m\u00e9ny\u00e9vel vagy egy tankerhaj\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Van a v\u00e1rosk\u00e1nak egy pici, de nagyon j\u00f3 strandja \u2013 a Plage des Combattants \u2013 a megl\u00e1togatott gal\u00e9ria alatt, csin\u00e1ltam fot\u00f3t a gy\u00f6ny\u00f6r\u0171 partr\u00f3l \u00e9s v\u00edzr\u0151l. A h\u00e1tt\u00e9rben, a horizonton pedig ott sorakozik egym\u00e1s m\u00f6g\u00f6tt vagy t\u00edz tankerhaj\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gondolkodtam is rajta, hogy itt biztosan j\u00f3 \u00e1ron lehet lak\u00e1st venni. A panellak\u00e1sokat konkr\u00e9tan a tengerpartra \u00e9p\u00edtett\u00e9k.<br>Tal\u00e1n \u00e9pp az\u00e9rt t\u0171nik kiss\u00e9 elhagyatottnak ez a hely, mert az \u00f6sszes nagyv\u00e1rost\u00f3l m\u00e1r kell\u0151en t\u00e1vol van ahhoz, hogy ne \u00e9rje meg az ing\u00e1z\u00e1s. Olyan ez, mint Budapesthez k\u00e9pest Martonv\u00e1s\u00e1r. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-preformatted\">Am\u00fagy nincs messze Arlest\u0151l vagy Les-Baux falut\u00f3l, tizenk\u00e9t kilom\u00e9tert bring\u00e1ztam, majd t\u00edz percet \u00e9s egy \u00fajabb \u00e1tsz\u00e1ll\u00e1s ut\u00e1n m\u00e9g huszon\u00f6t percet vonatoztam. <\/pre>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sz\u00e9p ez a t\u00e1j.<br>\u00c9lm\u00e9ny volt a vonat\u00fat is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Centre d&#8217;arts plastiques Fernand L\u00e9ger ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1si helysz\u00edn<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-preformatted\">Az arles-i - Les Rencontres de la Photographie - fot\u00f3fesztiv\u00e1lnak itt is van egy helysz\u00edne, ez adta az \u00f6tletet, hogy a szabadnapomon ide j\u00f6jjek \u00faszni. A ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00f3t\u00e9r csak d\u00e9lut\u00e1n nyit, sz\u00f3val el\u0151sz\u00f6r a pici strandot fedeztem fel. <br>K\u00e9t \u00fasz\u00e1s k\u00f6z\u00f6tt megeb\u00e9deltem.<br>Merthogy bicikliz\u00e9s k\u00f6zben a piacon vettem ol\u00edv\u00e1t, sz\u0151l\u0151t, bagettet. <\/pre>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Maga a t\u00e1rlat nem volt nagy sz\u00e1m, csak emiatt nem \u00e9rte volna meg idej\u00f6nni. Amint fentebb \u00edrtam, ez egy jelent\u0151s iparvid\u00e9k. Err\u0151l sz\u00f3lt a kicsike t\u00e1rlat: az iparosod\u00e1s el\u0151nyeir\u0151l \u00e9s h\u00e1tr\u00e1nyair\u00f3l, j\u00f3 \u00e9s rossz hat\u00e1s\u00e1r\u00f3l.<br>Az jutott eszembe, mik\u00f6zben n\u00e9ztem, hogy olyan ez, mintha a sz\u00e1zhalombattai olajfinom\u00edt\u00f3 Si\u00f3fok \u00e9s Zam\u00e1rdi k\u00f6z\u00f6tt ter\u00fclne el, a sarkaiba pedig m\u00e9g besuvasztan\u00e1nk egy-egy ipari kik\u00f6t\u0151t.<br>\u00c9s akkor el lehet k\u00e9pzelni, hogyan hatnak egym\u00e1sra az orsz\u00e1g kiemelt turista- \u00e9s term\u00e9szeti helyei \u00e9s a k\u00f6z\u00e9j\u00fck ker\u00fclt olajkik\u00f6t\u0151, amelynek a f\u00e1kly\u00e1it tiszta id\u0151ben m\u00e9g Arles dombjair\u00f3l is l\u00e1tni. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sz\u00f3val kiss\u00e9 sz\u00fcrre\u00e1lis \u00e9rz\u00e9sem volt, <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">amikor a ciprusf\u00e1s, az\u00fark\u00e9k h\u00e1tter\u0171 parkj\u00e1b\u00f3l fels\u00e9t\u00e1ltam a v\u00e1rosba, aminek iparv\u00e1ros-hangulata van; majd tizen\u00f6t perc ut\u00e1n el\u00e9rtem a belv\u00e1ros m\u00e1sik sz\u00e9l\u00e9t.<br>Merthogy az \u00f3v\u00e1ros val\u00f3j\u00e1ban egy f\u00e9lsziget k\u00e9t \u00f6b\u00f6l k\u00f6z\u00f6tt.<br>A belv\u00e1ros Martigues fel\u0151li v\u00e9ge egy kik\u00f6t\u0151i \u00f6b\u00f6l gy\u00f6ny\u00f6r\u0171 jachtokkal, az \u00f6b\u00f6l t\u00fals\u00f3 fel\u00e9n pedig \u00e9pp egy tankerhaj\u00f3t terelnek a ny\u00edlt v\u00edz fel\u00e9 a r\u00e9vkalauzok.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A korz\u00f3z\u00e1s ut\u00e1n <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">megn\u00e9ztem a picinke \u00f3v\u00e1ros m\u00e1sik strandj\u00e1t is, de az teljes csal\u00f3d\u00e1s volt.<br>Az, hogy homokos a part \u00e9s lassan m\u00e9ly\u00fcl\u0151 a v\u00edz, indokoltt\u00e1 teszi a hatalmas j\u00e1tsz\u00f3t\u00e9r ide helyez\u00e9s\u00e9t \u2013 a m\u00e1sik, gyorsan m\u00e9ly\u00fcl\u0151, kavicsos parthoz k\u00e9pest.<br>A probl\u00e9ma az, hogy a sek\u00e9ly vize er\u0151sen szikl\u00e1s, \u00e9s ez egy nagy kik\u00f6t\u0151kh\u00f6z k\u00f6zeli tengerpart, teh\u00e1t a v\u00edz mindig mozog. Nekem viszonylag j\u00f3 rutinom van, de a tizen\u00f6t perces pancsol\u00e1st nem tudtam meg\u00faszni horzsol\u00e1sok n\u00e9lk\u00fcl: \u00e1llni a v\u00edzben nem lehet, mert szikl\u00e1s; \u00faszni a szikl\u00e1k felett meg nem lehet rendesen, mert der\u00e9kig sem \u00e9r a v\u00edz; a derekammal \u00e9rintettem a ki\u00e1ll\u00f3 szikl\u00e1kat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Vissza is s\u00e9t\u00e1ltam a kor\u00e1bbi strandra. <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A szikl\u00e1s partoknak mindig megvan az az el\u0151nye, hogy m\u00e9g akkor is sz\u00e9pek, ha be\u00e9p\u00edtik \u0151ket.<br>Bennem megint csak abszurd hat\u00e1st keltett az itteni l\u00e1tv\u00e1ny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sorolom: t\u00e1volban v\u00e1rakoz\u00f3 tankerhaj\u00f3k, az\u00fark\u00e9k v\u00edz, v\u00f6r\u00f6s szikl\u00e1kkal meg\u00e1ldott part, \u00e9l\u00e9nkz\u00f6ld ciprusf\u00e1k, f\u00fcves s\u00e9t\u00e1ny, parkol\u00f3, ragyog\u00f3 feh\u00e9r t\u00edzemeletes panelh\u00e1zsorok. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Az utols\u00f3 <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">vonattal indulok vissza. Az \u00e1tsz\u00e1ll\u00e1sra v\u00e1rva isteni szendvicset eszem az isztambuli b\u00fcf\u00e9ben.<br>M\u00e9g a h\u00e1tt\u00e9rben \u00e9nekl\u0151 videoklipek is isztambuliak voltak. <br>Nekem pedig <strong>nosztalgia\u00e9rz\u00e9sem<\/strong> t\u00e1madt.  <br>Hi\u00e1nyzik Isztambul, a leh\u00faz\u00e1saival egy\u00fctt is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-preformatted\">Ahogy egy m\u00e1sik utaz\u00f3 fogalmazott: \u201esajnos feh\u00e9r ember vagyok\u201d, teh\u00e1t a vil\u00e1g n\u00e9pess\u00e9g\u00e9nek nyolcvan sz\u00e1zal\u00e9k\u00e1nak szem\u00e9ben a kihaszn\u00e1land\u00f3 p\u00e9nzes zs\u00e1k vagyok. <\/pre>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nem <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">vagyok boldog, amikor r\u00e1j\u00f6v\u00f6k, hogy megint otthon hagytam a biciklil\u00e1mp\u00e1t. Rajtam seg\u00edt a telihold \u2013 de er\u0151sen f\u00faj a sz\u00e9l, mint errefel\u00e9 oly gyakran \u2013, a m\u00f6g\u00f6ttem j\u00f6v\u0151 meg nem l\u00e1tja, ahogy a mistral sz\u00e9l betolja az \u00fatra a biciklit.<br>Sz\u00f3val ma lass\u00fas\u00e1gi versenyt nyerek \u2013 \u00e9s egy megf\u00e1z\u00e1st.<br>Reggeli pakol\u00e1sn\u00e1l csak a k\u00f6zelg\u0151 strandol\u00e1son j\u00e1rt az agyam\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A szomsz\u00e9d <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">faluban, Paradouban falunap van ezen a h\u00e9tv\u00e9g\u00e9n.<br><strong>A szok\u00e1sos j\u00f3s\u00e1gokkal:<\/strong> lovas bemutat\u00f3k, gyerekprogramok, bik\u00e1k, koncertek, t\u00e1nc hajnalig.<br>K\u00e9t koncert k\u00f6z\u00f6tt hazaugrom, \u00e9s a r\u00f6vidnadr\u00e1got kab\u00e1tra is cser\u00e9lem.<br>J\u00f3l \u00e9rzem magam, de ma este nem vagyok t\u00e1ncos kedvemben; hossz\u00fa \u00e9s tartalmas volt ez a nap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a data-flickr-embed='true' href='https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/lvarga\/albums\/72177720328923426\/' title='France \/ Port-de-Bouc by Laszlo8360, on Flickr'><img src='https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/31337\/54768471180_752b1e1bac_c.jpg' width='800' height='600' alt='20250905_200740_02'><\/a><script async src='https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/assets\/client-code.js' charset='utf-8'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong><kbd><mark style=\"background-color:#000000\" class=\"has-inline-color has-white-color\">A k\u00e9p sz\u00e9l\u00e9re val\u00f3 kattint\u00e1ssal a fot\u00f3album lapozhat\u00f3.<\/mark><\/kbd><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-187x1024.png\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\" noreferrer noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"468\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-scaled.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9923\" srcset=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-scaled.png 468w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-55x300.png 55w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-187x1024.png 187w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-768x4201.png 768w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/20250905-page-163-281x1536.png 281w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Azure and Flares \u2014 A Day in Port-de-Bouc<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A day without a purpose found one in a seaside gallery.<br>Port-de-Bouc is both holiday postcard and industrial backdrop: tankers on the horizon, panel blocks on the shore, full moon and mistral.<br>Notes between swims, trains, and odd contrasts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Port-de-Bouc, 2025-09-05, Friday<br>Today only had a purpose \u2014 the gallery of Port-de-Bouc \u2014 so it wouldn\u2019t be purposeless.<br>But I actually like purposeless days too; everything is weightless then, nothing compulsory, anything possible.<br>It\u2019s a small town on the coast between Marseille and the Camargue delta.<br>The Rh\u00f4ne\u2019s shipping channel reaches the sea here \u2014 and this is also the sea entrance to the inland lake by Martigues.<br>This little town is a graveyard of hopes.<br>Over the past centuries, plans were made more than once for an industrial hub here, for significant fisheries, but roughly none of it came to pass.<br>This region is a major industrial area, yet none of the facilities are tied to this town.<br>From the train and from the shore alike you can see industrial sites and harbors encircling it, yet the place itself seems just a quiet little town.<br>It\u2019s striking, for instance, that the castle of Port-de-Bouc \u2014 within line of sight, across the inner bay \u2014 belongs administratively to Martigues, and you can\u2019t photograph the castle without a refinery with a flaring stack or a tanker ship sneaking into the frame.<br>There\u2019s a tiny but very good beach \u2014 Plage des Combattants \u2014 right beneath the gallery I visited; I took photos of the beautiful shore and water.<br>And in the background, on the horizon, some ten tankers line up one behind another.<br>I even thought you could surely buy an apartment here at a good price.<br>The panel blocks are literally built on the seafront.<br>Perhaps the place feels a bit abandoned precisely because it\u2019s far enough from all big cities that commuting isn\u2019t worth it.<br>It\u2019s like Martonv\u00e1s\u00e1r compared to Budapest.<br>Anyway, it isn\u2019t far from Arles or the village of Les-Baux; I biked twelve kilometers, then after ten minutes and another transfer I took a twenty-five-minute train ride.<br>This landscape is beautiful.<br>The train ride itself was an experience.<br>Arles, Les Rencontres de la Photographie<br>The Arles photo festival has a venue here too, which gave me the idea to come here to swim on my day off.<br>The exhibition space opens only in the afternoon, so first I explored the tiny beach.<br>Between two swims I had lunch.<br>While cycling I\u2019d bought olives, grapes, and a baguette at the market.<br>The show itself wasn\u2019t a big deal; for that alone it wouldn\u2019t have been worth coming.<br>As I wrote above, this is a significant industrial region.<br>That\u2019s what the little show was about: the pros and cons of industrialization, its good and bad effects.<br>What occurred to me while watching was that it\u2019s as if the Sz\u00e1zhalombatta oil refinery sprawled between Si\u00f3fok and Zam\u00e1rdi, with an industrial port wedged into each corner.<br>And then you can imagine how the country\u2019s flagship tourist and natural sites and an oil port shoved among them affect one another \u2014 the flares of which, in clear weather, are visible even from the hills of Arles.<br>So I felt a bit surreal walking up from a cypress-shaded park with an azure backdrop into a town with the atmosphere of an industrial city; fifteen minutes later I\u2019d already reached the far edge of the center.<br>Because the old town is actually a peninsula between two bays.<br>On the Martigues side of the center there\u2019s a harbor basin with gorgeous yachts, and on the far side pilots were herding a tanker toward open water.<br>After the walk I checked out the old town\u2019s other tiny beach too, but it was a total disappointment.<br>The fact that it\u2019s sandy and the water shallows slowly justifies putting a huge playground there \u2014 compared to the other, quickly deepening, pebbly shore.<br>The problem is that its shallow water is very rocky, and this is a seacoast close to big ports, so the water is always moving.<br>I\u2019ve got decent experience, but I couldn\u2019t manage even fifteen minutes of splashing without scrapes: you can\u2019t stand in the water because it\u2019s rocky; you can\u2019t properly swim over the rocks because the water doesn\u2019t even reach your waist; my waist brushed the jutting stones.<br>So I walked back to the earlier beach.<br>Rocky coasts always have the advantage that they remain beautiful even when built up.<br>The sight here struck me as absurd again.<br>A list: tankers waiting in the distance, azure water, a shore blessed with red rocks, bright-green cypresses, a grassy promenade, parking lots, and a shining white row of ten-story panel blocks.<br>I\u2019m heading back on the last train.<br>Waiting for my connection, I\u2019m eating a divine sandwich at the Istanbul snack bar.<br>Even the music videos singing in the background were from Istanbul.<br>And I felt a wave of nostalgia.<br>I miss Istanbul \u2014 rip-offs and all.<br>As another traveler put it: \u201cunfortunately I\u2019m a white person,\u201d so in the eyes of some eighty percent of the world\u2019s population I\u2019m a money bag to be exploited.<br>I\u2019m not happy when I realize I\u2019ve left my bike light at home again.<br>The full moon helps me out \u2014 but the wind is strong, as it often is around here \u2014 and the person behind me can\u2019t see as the mistral shoves the bike onto the road.<br>So today I win a slow-riding contest \u2014 and catch a cold.<br>In the morning all I could think about was the upcoming swim\u2026<br>In the neighboring village, Paradou, there\u2019s a village festival this weekend.<br>With all the usual goodies: horse shows, kids\u2019 programs, bulls, concerts, dancing till dawn.<br>Between two concerts I nip home and swap my shorts for a coat.<br>I feel good, but I\u2019m not in the mood for dancing tonight; it\u2019s been a long, full day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Azur et torch\u00e8res \u2014 Une journ\u00e9e \u00e0 Port-de-Bouc<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Une journ\u00e9e sans but en a trouv\u00e9 un dans une galerie en bord de mer.<br>Port-de-Bouc est \u00e0 la fois carte postale de vacances et d\u00e9cor industriel : des tankers \u00e0 l\u2019horizon, des barres face \u00e0 la mer, pleine lune et mistral.<br>Notes entre brasses, trains et contrastes d\u00e9routants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Port-de-Bouc, 05\/09\/2025, vendredi<br>La journ\u00e9e n\u2019a eu pour but que la galerie de Port-de-Bouc \u2014 pour \u00e9viter d\u2019\u00eatre sans but.<br>Mais j\u2019aime bien les journ\u00e9es sans but aussi : tout est l\u00e9ger, rien n\u2019est obligatoire, tout est possible.<br>C\u2019est une petite ville sur la c\u00f4te, entre Marseille et le delta de la Camargue.<br>Le chenal de navigation du Rh\u00f4ne atteint la mer ici \u2014 et c\u2019est aussi l\u2019entr\u00e9e maritime du lac int\u00e9rieur pr\u00e8s de Martigues.<br>Cette bourgade est un cimeti\u00e8re d\u2019espoirs.<br>Au fil des si\u00e8cles, on y a plusieurs fois projet\u00e9 un p\u00f4le industriel, une p\u00eache importante, mais en gros rien ne s\u2019est r\u00e9alis\u00e9.<br>La r\u00e9gion est fortement industrialis\u00e9e, pourtant aucune installation n\u2019est vraiment li\u00e9e \u00e0 cette ville.<br>Du train comme du rivage, on voit des sites industriels et des ports l\u2019encercler, et le lieu, lui, para\u00eet une simple petite ville tranquille.<br>Fait curieux : le ch\u00e2teau de Port-de-Bouc \u2014 \u00e0 port\u00e9e de vue, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la baie int\u00e9rieure \u2014 rel\u00e8ve administrativement de Martigues, et il est impossible de le photographier sans qu\u2019une raffinerie et sa torch\u00e8re ou un p\u00e9trolier ne s\u2019invitent dans le cadre.<br>Il y a une toute petite mais excellente plage \u2014 la Plage des Combattants \u2014 juste sous la galerie que j\u2019ai visit\u00e9e ; j\u2019ai pris des photos du rivage et de l\u2019eau magnifiques.<br>Et, au fond, sur l\u2019horizon, une dizaine de p\u00e9troliers se rangent \u00e0 la queue leu leu.<br>Je me suis m\u00eame dit qu\u2019on pouvait s\u00fbrement acheter un appartement ici \u00e0 bon prix.<br>Les barres d\u2019immeubles sont litt\u00e9ralement b\u00e2ties au bord de la mer.<br>Peut-\u00eatre le lieu para\u00eet-il un peu abandonn\u00e9 pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment parce qu\u2019il est assez loin de toutes les grandes villes pour que l\u2019aller-retour ne vaille pas le coup.<br>C\u2019est comme Martonv\u00e1s\u00e1r par rapport \u00e0 Budapest.<br>De toute fa\u00e7on, ce n\u2019est pas loin d\u2019Arles ni du village des Baux ; j\u2019ai roul\u00e9 douze kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, puis apr\u00e8s dix minutes et une autre correspondance j\u2019ai encore pris vingt-cinq minutes de train.<br>Ce paysage est beau.<br>Le trajet en train aussi \u00e9tait une exp\u00e9rience.<br>Arles, Les Rencontres de la Photographie<br>Le festival photo d\u2019Arles a \u00e9galement un site ici, ce qui m\u2019a donn\u00e9 l\u2019id\u00e9e de venir nager ici pendant mon jour de cong\u00e9.<br>L\u2019espace d\u2019exposition n\u2019ouvre que l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, alors j\u2019ai d\u2019abord explor\u00e9 la petite plage.<br>Entre deux baignades, j\u2019ai d\u00e9jeun\u00e9.<br>En p\u00e9dalant, j\u2019avais achet\u00e9 des olives, du raisin et une baguette au march\u00e9.<br>L\u2019expo en soi n\u2019\u00e9tait pas extraordinaire ; pour elle seule, le d\u00e9placement n\u2019aurait pas valu le coup.<br>Comme je l\u2019ai \u00e9crit plus haut, c\u2019est une r\u00e9gion industrielle importante.<br>C\u2019est de cela que parlait la petite expo : des avantages et inconv\u00e9nients de l\u2019industrialisation, de ses bons et mauvais effets.<br>En regardant, je me suis dit que c\u2019\u00e9tait comme si la raffinerie de Sz\u00e1zhalombatta s\u2019\u00e9talait entre Si\u00f3fok et Zam\u00e1rdi, avec un port industriel coinc\u00e9 dans chaque angle.<br>Alors on peut imaginer l\u2019influence r\u00e9ciproque entre les sites touristiques et naturels phares du pays et un port p\u00e9trolier ins\u00e9r\u00e9 entre eux \u2014 dont on voit les torch\u00e8res par temps clair jusque depuis les collines d\u2019Arles.<br>J\u2019ai donc eu une impression un peu surr\u00e9aliste en remontant d\u2019un parc \u00e0 l\u2019ombre des cypr\u00e8s, sur fond azur\u00e9, vers une ville \u00e0 l\u2019atmosph\u00e8re industrielle ; quinze minutes plus tard, j\u2019\u00e9tais d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 l\u2019autre bout du centre.<br>Car le vieux centre est en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 une presqu\u2019\u00eele entre deux baies.<br>C\u00f4t\u00e9 Martigues, le centre donne sur un bassin portuaire aux yachts splendides, et, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, des pilotes guidaient justement un p\u00e9trolier vers le large.<br>Apr\u00e8s la promenade, j\u2019ai aussi vu l\u2019autre minuscule plage du vieux centre, mais ce fut une vraie d\u00e9ception.<br>Le fait que le sable soit fin et que l\u2019eau descende doucement justifie l\u2019installation d\u2019une immense aire de jeux \u2014 par rapport \u00e0 l\u2019autre rivage, de galets, qui devient rapidement profond.<br>Le probl\u00e8me, c\u2019est que l\u2019eau peu profonde est tr\u00e8s rocheuse, et comme on est pr\u00e8s de grands ports, la mer bouge sans cesse.<br>J\u2019ai pas mal d\u2019habitude, mais je n\u2019ai pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 \u00e9viter les \u00e9raflures en quinze minutes de barbote : on ne peut pas rester debout dans l\u2019eau parce qu\u2019elle est rocheuse ; on ne peut pas bien nager au-dessus des rochers parce que l\u2019eau n\u2019arrive m\u00eame pas \u00e0 la taille ; ma taille a heurt\u00e9 les pierres saillantes.<br>Je suis donc revenu \u00e0 la premi\u00e8re plage.<br>Les c\u00f4tes rocheuses ont toujours l\u2019avantage de rester belles m\u00eame quand on les b\u00e2tit.<br>La vision ici m\u2019a paru de nouveau absurde.<br>Je liste : p\u00e9troliers en attente au loin, eau azur, rivage aux rochers rouges, cypr\u00e8s vert vif, promenade herbeuse, parking, et une rang\u00e9e \u00e9clatante d\u2019immeubles de dix \u00e9tages.<br>Je repars par le dernier train.<br>En attendant la correspondance, je mange un sandwich divin au snack d\u2019Istanbul.<br>M\u00eame les clips qui chantaient en fond venaient d\u2019Istanbul.<br>Et une bouff\u00e9e de nostalgie m\u2019a pris.<br>Istanbul me manque \u2014 ses arnaques comprises.<br>Comme l\u2019a formul\u00e9 un autre voyageur : \u00ab malheureusement je suis blanc \u00bb, donc, aux yeux d\u2019environ quatre-vingts pour cent de la population mondiale, je suis un porte-monnaie \u00e0 exploiter.<br>Je ne suis pas heureux quand je r\u00e9alise que j\u2019ai encore oubli\u00e9 ma lampe de v\u00e9lo \u00e0 la maison.<br>La pleine lune me d\u00e9panne \u2014 mais le vent souffle fort, comme souvent ici \u2014 et la personne derri\u00e8re moi ne voit pas quand le mistral pousse le v\u00e9lo sur la route.<br>Bref, aujourd\u2019hui je gagne une course de lenteur \u2014 et j\u2019attrape un rhume.<br>Le matin, je ne pensais qu\u2019\u00e0 la baignade qui approchait\u2026<br>Dans le village voisin, Paradou, c\u2019est la f\u00eate ce week-end.<br>Avec les habituelles r\u00e9jouissances : spectacles \u00e9questres, animations pour enfants, taureaux, concerts, danse jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019aube.<br>Entre deux concerts, je file \u00e0 la maison et j\u2019\u00e9change mon short contre un manteau.<br>Je me sens bien, mais ce soir je n\u2019ai pas le c\u0153ur \u00e0 danser ; la journ\u00e9e a \u00e9t\u00e9 longue et bien remplie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Port-de-Bouc egyszerre mediterr\u00e1n paradicsom \u00e9s ipari d\u00edszlet: tankerek a horizonton, panellak\u00e1sok a parton, telihold \u00e9s mistral. Jegyzetek az \u00fasz\u00e1sok, vonatok \u00e9s a furcsa kontrasztok k\u00f6z\u00f6tt.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9920,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[40,36],"tags":[8292,8290],"class_list":["post-9919","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-franciaorszag","category-naplom","tag-en-france-2","tag-in-english-2"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Az\u00fark\u00e9k \u00e9s a l\u00e1ngol\u00f3 k\u00e9m\u00e9nyek \u2014 Port-de-Bouc egy napra - Varga Laci<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/9919\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Az\u00fark\u00e9k \u00e9s a l\u00e1ngol\u00f3 k\u00e9m\u00e9nyek \u2014 Port-de-Bouc egy napra - Varga Laci\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Port-de-Bouc egyszerre mediterr\u00e1n paradicsom \u00e9s ipari d\u00edszlet: tankerek a horizonton, panellak\u00e1sok a parton, telihold \u00e9s mistral. 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