{"id":10236,"date":"2025-09-27T05:15:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-27T03:15:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/?p=10236"},"modified":"2026-05-14T09:53:24","modified_gmt":"2026-05-14T08:53:24","slug":"10236","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/fr\/10236\/","title":{"rendered":"F\u00e9kezve a hegyen, szabadon az ar\u00e9n\u00e1ban"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Szombat, amikor a bringa m\u00e1r biztosan szerviz\u00e9rt ki\u00e1lt, de a v\u00e1ros \u00fcnnepel. Abrivado a f\u0151utc\u00e1n, k\u00e9t buli egy este \u2014 \u00e9s k\u00f6zben hossz\u00fa gyalogl\u00e1sok, k\u00f6nyvek a f\u00fclemben. Nem az \u00e9n st\u00edlusom a techno, m\u00e9gis hajnalig eml\u00e9keztet mennyire \u00e9l a v\u00e1ros.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-video is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"20250927_214734\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/54818023961\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Saint-R\u00e9my-de-Provence, 2025. 09. 27. szombat. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Most m\u00e1r biztos, hogy a j\u00f6v\u0151 h\u00e9ten megy a szervizbe a bringa; ezt nem arra tal\u00e1lt\u00e1k ki, hogy \u00f6t kilom\u00e9ter per \u00f3r\u00e1val v\u00e1nszorogjak le a hegyr\u0151l \u2014 p\u00e9ntek \u00e9jszaka, csak az\u00e9rt, mert a f\u00e9kekben nem b\u00edzom.<br>Mindezt hajnali kett\u0151kor, k\u00e9t buli k\u00f6z\u00f6tt.<br>Ezek ut\u00e1n nem csoda, ha szombaton t\u00edzig fel sem \u00e9bredek, \u00e9s ut\u00e1na is csak lust\u00e1lkodom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Eb\u00e9d ut\u00e1n szedem \u00f6ssze magam.<br>Megpr\u00f3b\u00e1lok picit jav\u00edtani a f\u00e9kek \u00e1llapot\u00e1n; egy \u00f3ra k\u00fcszk\u00f6d\u00e9s ut\u00e1n feladom \u2014 nem lesz jobb, ma ink\u00e1bb s\u00e9t\u00e1lok lefel\u00e9 a hegyr\u0151l. <br>(Nem, nincs m\u00e1s k\u00f6zleked\u00e9si eszk\u00f6z a szomsz\u00e9d telep\u00fcl\u00e9sre, ez t\u00e9nyleg egy meredek hegy.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ezeket a hossz\u00fa s\u00e9t\u00e1kat az\u00e9rt szeretem, mert k\u00f6zben lehet k\u00f6nyveket felolvastatni \u2014 a telefonommal.<br>Joseph Conrad A s\u00f6t\u00e9ts\u00e9g m\u00e9ly\u00e9n c\u00edm\u0171 reg\u00e9ny\u00e9t \u00e9pp befejezem, \u00e9s meg\u00e1llap\u00edtom, hogy az \u00e1ltalam is kedvelt magyar \u00edr\u00f3, Kondor Vilmos leg\u00fajabb k\u00f6nyv\u00e9nek egyik fejezete megegyezik ennek a k\u00f6nyvnek a kivonat\u00e1val.<br>Azt hiszem, ezt nem is titkolja Kondor, hisz A s\u00f6t\u00e9ts\u00e9g m\u00e9ly\u00e9nt \u00e9pp \u0151 aj\u00e1nlotta.<br>El is kezdem \u00fajraolvasni \u201eaz utols\u00f3 magyar akci\u00f3h\u0151s\u201d k\u00f6nyvet.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"20250927_184011\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/54817957791\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nos, Saint-R\u00e9my-ben akci\u00f3 az van b\u0151ven.<br>K\u00e9s\u0151 d\u00e9lut\u00e1n \u201eabrivado\u201d-t, azaz egyfajta bikafuttat\u00e1st tartanak: lovasok egy csapata k\u00eds\u00e9r egy (vagy t\u00f6bb) bik\u00e1t v\u00e9gig a f\u0151utc\u00e1n.<br>Ebben a v\u00e1rosban az az \u00e9rdekes, hogy nincsenek szigor\u00faan elz\u00e1rva a b\u00e1m\u00e9szkod\u00f3k az \u00e1llatokt\u00f3l \u2014 gondolom, helyhi\u00e1ny miatt.<br>Itt is megvannak az alkalmi ker\u00edt\u00e9sek, amelyek m\u00f6g\u00e9 el tudnak b\u00fajni a n\u00e9z\u0151k (ezek a ker\u00edt\u00e9sek el\u00e9g er\u0151sek ahhoz, hogy egy feln\u0151tt bika se tudja feld\u00f6nteni), csak \u00e9pp nem mindenhol.<br>Arles-ben p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul a kocsi\u00fat k\u00e9t oldal\u00e1n v\u00e9gig ker\u00edt\u00e9st h\u00faznak fel, \u00e9s a n\u00e9z\u0151k a j\u00e1rd\u00e1n sorakoznak.<br>Itt a teljes f\u0151utca, falt\u00f3l falig, az \u00e1llatok\u00e9, \u00e9s a keresztutc\u00e1k torkolata meg a k\u00e1v\u00e9z\u00f3k teraszai vannak elbarik\u00e1dozva \u2014 saj\u00e1t felel\u0151ss\u00e9gre b\u00e1rki s\u00e9t\u00e1lhat az utc\u00e1n.<br>\u00c9n p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul be\u00e1lltam k\u00e9t kuka k\u00f6z\u00e9; egy esetben egy neveletlen fiatal bika egy m\u00e9terre rohant el mellettem.<br>Nagy \u00e9lm\u00e9ny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div style=\"top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;\">\t\t\t\t<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"lv_0_20251001003814\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute;\"  src=\"https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/photos\/54823977458\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Az esti koncertshow m\u00e1r eleve \u00fagy hirdeti mag\u00e1t, hogy a szezon utols\u00f3 fell\u00e9p\u00e9se.<br>Csup\u00e1n csak szeretn\u00e9m, ha nem \u00edgy lenne.<br>H\u00e1rom t\u00e1ncos, h\u00e1rom \u00e9nekesn\u0151, k\u00e9t \u00e9nekes f\u00e9rfi, k\u00e9t f\u00fav\u00f3s, egy billenty\u0171s, egy dobos, k\u00e9t git\u00e1ros, n\u00e9gy f\u00fcstg\u00e9p, k\u00e9t l\u00e9zerl\u00e1mpa, k\u00e9t szappanbubor\u00e9k-f\u00faj\u00f3 g\u00e9p \u2014 egy sz\u00ednpadon.<br>Ja, \u00e9s itt nem f\u00faj a sz\u00e9l! Ez nem v\u00edzpart. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Emellett a kocsm\u00e1b\u00f3l alkalmi diszk\u00f3 lett, az egykori ar\u00e9n\u00e1ban pedig ma is diszk\u00f3 \u00fczemel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Mondom, egy alig t\u00edzezres v\u00e1rosk\u00e1ban vagyok. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A mai DJ nagyon \u00fcgyes.<br>Kem\u00e9ny techn\u00f3t nyom, amit otthon nem hallgatok, de van annyi esze, hogy miut\u00e1n v\u00e9gign\u00e9zte a k\u00f6z\u00f6ns\u00e9get, retr\u00f3 zen\u00e9vel (a kilencvenes\u2013k\u00e9tezres \u00e9vek feldolgoz\u00e1saival) vegy\u00edti.<br>Annyira j\u00f3l csin\u00e1lja, hogy eg\u00e9szen hajnali f\u00e9l egyig el tudja feledtetni velem, hogy ez nem az \u00e9n st\u00edlusom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Egy este alatt k\u00e9t buli! <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tizenegyig a popul\u00e1ris zen\u00e9kkel oper\u00e1l\u00f3 koncertshow, ut\u00e1na meg a szabadt\u00e9ri diszk\u00f3.<br>Hajnali egykor m\u00e9g l\u00e1tom, ahogy a koncertshow st\u00e1bja a b\u00facs\u00fasz\u00f3lamokat j\u00e1tssza. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c9n is b\u00facs\u00fazom eme kedves helyt\u0151l.<br>Vas\u00e1rnap dolgozom, \u00e9s kellene egy keveset aludni is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-flickr wp-block-embed-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a data-flickr-embed='true' href='https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/lvarga\/albums\/72177720327426241\/' title='Festiv&#039; Arles by Laszlo8360, on Flickr'><img src='https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/31337\/54635718170_d967f4b049_c.jpg' width='800' height='600' alt='20250704_211417'><\/a><script async src='https:\/\/embedr.flickr.com\/assets\/client-code.js' charset='utf-8'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><strong><kbd><mark style=\"background-color:#000000\" class=\"has-inline-color has-white-color\">A k\u00e9p sz\u00e9l\u00e9re val\u00f3 kattint\u00e1ssal a fot\u00f3album lapozhat\u00f3.<\/mark><\/kbd><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-scaled.png\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\" noreferrer noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"868\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-scaled.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10240\" srcset=\"https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-scaled.png 868w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-102x300.png 102w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-347x1024.png 347w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-768x2266.png 768w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-521x1536.png 521w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-694x2048.png 694w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-1140x3363.png 1140w, https:\/\/laszlo8360.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2025.09.27-page-190-1320x3894.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 868px) 100vw, 868px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Braking on the Mountain, Free in the Arena<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A Saturday when the bike clearly needs the shop, but the town is in full celebration.<br>Abrivado down the main street, two parties in one night \u2014 with long walks and audiobooks in between.<br>Techno isn\u2019t my style, yet the night made me forget that until dawn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Saint-R\u00e9my-de-Provence, Sat, 2025-09-27.<br>It\u2019s now certain the bike goes to the shop next week; it wasn\u2019t made for crawling down the mountain at five kilometers per hour \u2014 on Friday night \u2014 just because I don\u2019t trust the brakes.<br>All this at 2 a.m., between two parties.<br>No wonder I didn\u2019t wake up until ten on Saturday, and lazed around afterward.<br>After lunch I pull myself together.<br>I try to tweak the brakes a bit; after an hour of wrestling I give up \u2014 they won\u2019t get better \u2014 so today I\u2019ll just walk down the mountain.<br>(No, there\u2019s no other transport to the neighboring town; it really is a steep mountain.)<br>I like these long walks because I can have books read aloud \u2014 by my phone.<br>I just finished Joseph Conrad\u2019s <em>Heart of Darkness<\/em> and realized that a chapter of Hungarian writer Vilmos Kondor\u2019s latest book \u2014 whom I also like \u2014 is basically a digest of it.<br>I don\u2019t think Kondor hides this; he actually recommended <em>Heart of Darkness<\/em>.<br>So I start rereading the \u201clast Hungarian action hero\u201d book.<br>Well, there\u2019s plenty of action in Saint-R\u00e9my.<br>Late afternoon brings an <em>abrivado<\/em> \u2014 a kind of bull run: a team of riders escorts one (or more) bulls along the main street.<br>What\u2019s interesting here is that spectators aren\u2019t strictly fenced off from the animals \u2014 I suppose due to lack of space.<br>There are temporary barriers people can duck behind (sturdy enough that even an adult bull can\u2019t knock them over), just not everywhere.<br>In Arles, for example, they run fences along both sides of the roadway and spectators line the sidewalks.<br>Here the entire main street, wall to wall, belongs to the animals, and the cross-street mouths and caf\u00e9 terraces are barricaded; otherwise anyone can walk in the street at their own risk.<br>I stood between two bins; at one point an ill-mannered young bull thundered past just a meter from me.<br>What a thrill.<br>The evening concert-show advertises itself as the season\u2019s last performance.<br>I\u2019d honestly prefer it weren\u2019t.<br>Three dancers, three female singers, two male singers, two horn players, a keyboardist, a drummer, two guitarists, four smoke machines, two laser lights, two bubble machines \u2014 all on one stage.<br>And no wind here! It\u2019s not the waterfront.<br>Meanwhile, the pub has turned into a pop-up club, and the old arena is a disco again tonight.<br>All this in a town of barely ten thousand.<br>Tonight\u2019s DJ is really skillful.<br>He drops hard techno \u2014 not what I listen to at home \u2014 but smartly mixes in retro (\u201990s\/\u201900s reworks) after reading the crowd.<br>He does it so well that until 12:30 a.m. I forget it isn\u2019t my genre.<br>Two parties in one night!<br>Pop-leaning concert-show until eleven, then the open-air disco.<br>At 1 a.m. I still catch the concert crew playing farewell phrases.<br>I say goodbye to this dear place, too.<br>I\u2019m working on Sunday, and I should really sleep a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Freiner sur la montagne, libre dans l\u2019ar\u00e8ne<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Un samedi o\u00f9 le v\u00e9lo r\u00e9clame clairement l\u2019atelier, pendant que la ville est en f\u00eate.<br>Abrivado sur la grande rue, deux soir\u00e9es en une \u2014 entrecoup\u00e9es de longues marches et de livres audio.<br>La techno n\u2019est pas mon style, et pourtant j\u2019en ai oubli\u00e9 la chose jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019aube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Saint-R\u00e9my-de-Provence, sam. 27\/09\/2025.<br>C\u2019est s\u00fbr maintenant : le v\u00e9lo part en r\u00e9vision la semaine prochaine ; il n\u2019est pas fait pour d\u00e9valer la montagne \u00e0 cinq kilom\u00e8tres\/heure \u2014 un vendredi nuit \u2014 juste parce que je ne fais pas confiance aux freins.<br>Tout cela \u00e0 deux heures du matin, entre deux f\u00eates.<br>Pas \u00e9tonnant que je ne me sois pas r\u00e9veill\u00e9 avant dix heures samedi, et que j\u2019aie paress\u00e9 ensuite.<br>Apr\u00e8s le d\u00e9jeuner, je me ressaisis.<br>J\u2019essaie d\u2019am\u00e9liorer un peu l\u2019\u00e9tat des freins ; apr\u00e8s une heure \u00e0 m\u2019escrimer, j\u2019abandonne \u2014 \u00e7a n\u2019ira pas mieux \u2014, aujourd\u2019hui je descendrai la montagne \u00e0 pied.<br>(Non, il n\u2019y a pas d\u2019autre moyen de transport vers la commune voisine ; c\u2019est vraiment une montagne raide.)<br>J\u2019aime ces longues marches parce que je peux me faire lire des livres \u2014 par mon t\u00e9l\u00e9phone.<br>Je viens de terminer <em>Au c\u0153ur des t\u00e9n\u00e8bres<\/em> de Joseph Conrad et je constate qu\u2019un chapitre du dernier livre de l\u2019\u00e9crivain hongrois Vilmos Kondor \u2014 que j\u2019appr\u00e9cie aussi \u2014 en reprend pour l\u2019essentiel le condens\u00e9.<br>Je ne crois pas que Kondor le cache : c\u2019est lui qui recommandait <em>Au c\u0153ur des t\u00e9n\u00e8bres<\/em>.<br>Je me remets donc \u00e0 lire le livre du \u00ab dernier h\u00e9ros d\u2019action hongrois \u00bb.<br>Eh bien, \u00e0 Saint-R\u00e9my, de l\u2019action, il y en a.<br>En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, <em>abrivado<\/em> \u2014 une sorte de l\u00e2cher de taureaux : une \u00e9quipe de cavaliers escorte un (ou plusieurs) taureau(x) le long de la rue principale.<br>Particularit\u00e9 ici : les spectateurs ne sont pas strictement s\u00e9par\u00e9s des animaux \u2014 sans doute par manque de place.<br>Il y a bien des barri\u00e8res provisoires derri\u00e8re lesquelles se r\u00e9fugier (suffisamment solides pour qu\u2019un taureau adulte ne les renverse pas), mais pas partout.<br>\u00c0 Arles, par exemple, on dresse des barri\u00e8res des deux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de la chauss\u00e9e et le public reste sur les trottoirs.<br>Ici, toute la grande rue \u2014 de mur \u00e0 mur \u2014 appartient aux animaux ; les d\u00e9bouch\u00e9s des rues transversales et les terrasses des caf\u00e9s sont barricad\u00e9s, et chacun peut marcher dans la rue \u00e0 ses risques et p\u00e9rils.<br>Je me poste entre deux bacs ; \u00e0 un moment, un jeune taureau mal \u00e9lev\u00e9 passe \u00e0 un m\u00e8tre de moi.<br>Grosse mont\u00e9e d\u2019adr\u00e9naline.<br>Le concert-show du soir s\u2019annonce comme la derni\u00e8re date de la saison.<br>J\u2019aimerais bien que non.<br>Trois danseurs, trois chanteuses, deux chanteurs, deux cuivres, un clavi\u00e9riste, un batteur, deux guitaristes, quatre machines \u00e0 fum\u00e9e, deux lasers, deux machines \u00e0 bulles \u2014 sur une seule sc\u00e8ne.<br>Et ici, pas de vent ! On n\u2019est pas au bord de l\u2019eau.<br>Par ailleurs, le bistrot s\u2019est mu\u00e9 en disco \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re, et l\u2019ancienne ar\u00e8ne tourne elle aussi en bo\u00eete ce soir.<br>Tout \u00e7a dans une ville \u00e0 peine dix-mille habitants.<br>Le DJ de ce soir est tr\u00e8s habile.<br>Il envoie une techno dure \u2014 que je n\u2019\u00e9coute pas chez moi \u2014, mais, apr\u00e8s avoir lu la salle, il la m\u00eale \u00e0 du r\u00e9tro (relectures des ann\u00e9es 90\/2000).<br>Il le fait si bien que, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 0 h 30, j\u2019en oublie que ce n\u2019est pas mon genre.<br>Deux soir\u00e9es en une !<br>Concert-show grand public jusqu\u2019\u00e0 23 h, puis la disco en plein air.<br>\u00c0 1 h du matin, je vois encore l\u2019\u00e9quipe du show jouer les phrases d\u2019adieu.<br>Moi aussi, je fais mes adieux \u00e0 ce cher endroit.<br>Dimanche je travaille \u2014 il va falloir dormir un peu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Szombat, amikor a bringa m\u00e1r biztosan szerviz\u00e9rt ki\u00e1lt, de a v\u00e1ros \u00fcnnepel. Abrivado a f\u0151utc\u00e1n, k\u00e9t buli egy este \u2014 \u00e9s k\u00f6zben hossz\u00fa gyalogl\u00e1sok, k\u00f6nyvek a f\u00fclemben. 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