CYPRUS 2021
So, the various and diverse errors are thanks to this, that I wrote these entries on the spot (sometimes in someone’s lap, while waiting, sometimes sitting on a rock, but there are a few that I etched back in the day with a drink in one hand). Unfortunately, I don’t have the time to turn this into a normal and usable informational page, so I’ll ‘copy and paste’ the very first version as it is. Take it with abundant sense of humor
Thursday
I owe it to the airport hostess that I caught the plane. If she hadn’t pulled me out of the check-in line, I would have missed the boarding too.
***
Until now, I didn’t feel like it.
Alone.
But, when you land directly on the beach…
You don’t even need to see it.
The fresh air. The warm breeze…
I love it.
The airport is relaxed. Even on a November evening, the weather is still good here. The triple passport check went smoothly and cheerfully. The first one outside on the tarmac. They scanned the pre-generated QR code (had to register online due to Covid), then inside, the robot border guard took a photo of me that even Mr. Bean would envy. And at the exit, a person took the funny photo.
The airport bus is typically Greek in organization. Three different pieces of information arrived regarding the departure time, plus two other buses. The correct answer was at the airport information. So, on average, there’s a bus every hour that takes you to the city for 2.5 euros in about 30 minutes. This mostly means Kato Paphos.
In the time before tourists, there were two separate settlements: Kato Paphos was the fishing village around the port, and Paphos (Centre) city was three kilometers up on the hill.
Well, my bus arrived at the Harbour station in Pano Paphos, not at the Karavella station near the city center where my accommodation was waiting.
***
Since I’m already walking, I’ll grab a bite to eat along the way. I randomly stop at a roadside tavern. Since the island was an English colony sixty years ago, English communication is no problem. Nowadays, it’s a Russian tourist paradise, so don’t be surprised if even the waiter greets us in Russian.
So, I told the chef that it’s been a while since I ate something in Budapest and I’m very hungry; preferably avoid dairy, otherwise, make a pita that he likes the most.
—
We are used to a tea saucer-sized and shaped thin pastry at home. Here it’s the size of two of my palms, oval-shaped, and just a bit thicker than the pastry we’re used to.
The guy took a skewer off the fire (not a gas flame), on which the most spicy meatballs, reminiscent of falafel, had just been cooked, and stuffed them into the pita packed with fresh vegetables.
By « fresh, » I don’t mean recently purchased. Maybe someone knows that taste when you take a bite of a tomato, pepper, onion, or cucumber just picked from grandma’s garden? It’s juicier and crunchier. Well, he added olive slices to top it off.
Due to my lactose sensitivity, I got plenty of olive oil dressing instead of yogurt.
I have a good appetite, but it still took me half an hour to finish that huge portion. It was really worth those four and a half euros.
By the way, I should note that you only need cash when paying the bus driver. Everywhere else, card payments work. So, a Revolut card is enough for the whole vacation.
The prices? They’re like in Budapest’s tourist spots. Not cheap, but manageable.
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Finding accommodation in Cyprus is easy. Just had to use the booking site. (By the way, if you have a Wizz Air registration, start your accommodation search from their site, because they credit a few cents)
Accommodation for three nights is fifty euros – this is the cheapest. It complements the ten-euro flight ticket.
I managed this by starting to monitor accommodation and flight prices well in advance (in this case, already in September).
It’s already past ten in the evening. Despite this, my host welcomes me with a fresh smile.
This is a hostel, so I didn’t have high expectations. I’m going to share the place with three foreign guys.
Nevertheless, the accommodation was perfectly fine. Even if it wasn’t as nicely done as, say, the Marseille accommodation.
The bed is comfortable, the hostel is clean and tidy.
The hosts are friendly. Access is great day and night.
Maybe just like in most places, a small padlock comes in handy here too.
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Oh, and it’s true for almost all not completely newly built buildings: there’s never enough sockets. Well, I always have an extension cord with me. In larger stores, you can get one that’s about five meters long, made of thin, lightweight material, not suitable for devices stronger than a computer, but a good choice for a tourist; or I bring a charger that has at least two USB ports, one with an external battery, and the other alternating between everything else.
What I forgot about Cyprus is that not only is the traffic non-European (so it’s left-hand driving here), but the electrical network is too.
The plugs are in line with the British standard. The experienced host lady lent me an adapter for the first night.
Boulevard Bistro. Remember this name if your accommodation is not by the beach, but in the city center of Paphos, specifically at Kennedy Square, which can be considered the main square. It has a huge outdoor seating area. It’s relatively reasonably priced compared to the city center (for example, a pint of beer is four and a half euros).
This square is great because it’s sheltered enough that the sea breeze doesn’t have much effect, yet it’s centrally located enough to be easily accessible from anywhere. Why did I choose this place? Because every evening there’s good music playing – often, local guitarists sing. The staff is attentive, and the food is excellent. The place has a classy vibe.
Friday
Well, the frappé. After all, we are in a Greek-influenced area. It’s actually one of my favorites. Unfortunately, I have to ask for it without milk, and most of the time, that’s how I got it.
***
Let’s not imagine a traditional market where every food item is as attractive as a Greek girl’s smile. The old town market has dwindled into a souvenir bazaar aimed at tourists, but the quarter comes alive at night: you can always find a place to dance or listen to a live concert.
I must say, this is an ideal place for watching the sunset over the city – sipping cocktails on the terraces.
***
For those who enjoy getting lost, it’s recommended to slightly veer left when heading down from the city center. It’s also recommended for those looking for slightly less crowded streets.
If you come this way, visit the Musé Café, which is perched on a corner of the hill and makes an excellent selfie spot with Kato Paphos and the sea in the background.
***
If you want a good breakfast, look for a bakery – just like in so many other places around the world.
For me, one called « Bon apetit » became my favorite. It’s a discreet little shop halfway between Paphos Centre and the « city » beach. I confess, I only noticed the sign because of my fondness for the French – otherwise, I would have easily passed by. Upon entering, right at the entrance, they offer different fresh pastries every day. The counter is filled with fruity and cheesy pastries.
There’s one pastry (unfortunately, I didn’t remember its name) that you’ll become addicted to: it looks like a walnut-filled pastry with salty caramel. You’ll find it above the cash register.
Of course, you can enjoy all of these with a coffee on the terrace in front of the shop.
***
Vrisoudia Beach
While the central square in Paphos Centre is Kennedy Square, the essence of Kato Paphos is the coastal promenade, with the harbor at one end (along with the castle, archaeological park, and bus station) and the beaches starting at the other end. Also, the streets starting from the little fountain here lead to the entertainment venues. The first beach is the city beach, with dressing rooms and sunbathing terraces. As you go further out, you’ll find less crowded sections under the hotel rows. Due to their rocky nature, these areas don’t offer much sunbathing opportunity (unless you rent a sunbed in one of the hotel gardens), but they offer a great swimming experience, thanks to the breakwaters. Vrisoudia appealed to me because I didn’t have to go far from the main promenade, and the walkway above the shore in front of the hotels is about two meters higher, making it a really peaceful place in the city. Besides, most of the noisy Russian families only go as far as the soda (city) beach.
If you’d like to go a bit further from the city, check out the offers on ciprusinap:
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I must admit, I expected a slightly more monumental fortress. I would rather call it a little fort; my mother’s country house is actually bigger than this. However, it’s a fantastic subject for photos, with the harbor (and the city) on the east side and a stunning seaside promenade on the west.
***
For sunset enthusiasts, it’s a must to start the walk from the fortress. If you want to bring a little romance to your vacation, it’s obligatory to walk along here.
By the way, a comfortable day plan could be to start in the morning at the archaeological park. After lunch, starting from the harbor, walk to the Ligthouse beach and then float in the water and watch a sunset. In the evening, ask for a selection of mezes, then dance until dawn!
***
If shopping is your thing too…
You’ll find the plaza at the intersection of the main coastal roads, halfway between Kato Paphos harbor and the central square of Paphos Centre.
If you happen to be in a situation where your host no longer has an adapter to lend you, please don’t buy one in the souvenir shop for ten euros, but get one at the supermarket for two euros. It will do just fine for your stay.
***
Grab a bottle of wine and a beach towel and take a seat on the rocks! Share the other glass with a lady passing by.
I don’t know about you, but by the end of the day, my mouth has a salty taste. A wonderful compensation for this, in my opinion, is a few bites of lokum and a few sips of dry white wine – all while lounging in the sunset.
Cyprus cuisine is as diverse as its history: it combines elements from the Middle East, Turkey, and Greece.
One thing you’ll find everywhere is meze. It’s not a single dish, but rather a selection of dishes. Take your time, as they’ll serve you many small dishes, one after another.
On the contrary, my favorite is tavas, which is a tray of food. It’s primarily made up of lamb in a tomato-based stew, served with grilled vegetables, rice cooked with grape leaves, and fried potatoes. Additionally, there’s a salad made from fresh vegetables. Oh, and of course, the welcome bites: a basket of pita bread – in my case, with sun-dried tomatoes. It goes well with the local white wine, and just when you think your stomach is full, they’ll offer you a bowl of fruit.
I paid twenty-four euros, including the coffee.
Life is good, my polo shirt feels snug around my belly.
By the way, they have Turkish coffee, called Cypriot coffee on the Greek side of the island, and it’s quite delicious. Don’t be afraid to try it. Don’t be fussy about the grounds. The secret is to wait a bit for it to settle, then simply sip the coffee from the liquid. Perhaps the only difference from the Turkish coffees I knew before is that this one is slightly thicker and creamier in texture.
Believe me, ciprusinap.hu doesn’t pay me a commission for mentioning them repeatedly. In the case of Paphos, this seems to be the best source of information for me.
What they’ve already written, I won’t repeat, so please forgive me:
***
And now, a Stroll in the Center 🙂
Just like the old town, the name doesn’t make much sense. The Roman eras left their mark elsewhere too.
It was a bit challenging to roll uphill to Paphos Centre with a full stomach, where the accommodation was.
After a quick change of clothes, the night can begin.
So, in mid-November, shorts are already insufficient for the night. A cardigan and long pants will be just right.
***
Ta Ninata
That’s what the Outdoor Bar was called, where a good cocktail costs 10 €.
However, the ten-euro cocktail may not be the most favorable offer.
In the bars of Kato Paphos, you can get a cocktail for 3-5 euros, and even in an upscale place, you’ll find something to your liking for 6-8 euros.
Oh, that wonderful Greek music.
There’s not a single evening when you can’t listen to live Greek music somewhere.
If you pay close attention around the market, you’ll figure out where to go. Of course, these places are not necessarily the cheapest. Let’s add a bit of nibbles in the drink and the passion of the singer. It’s interesting that most places are filled with locals who sing along, clap, and dance through the night.
A wonderful evening!
***
King Souvlaki – in the vicinity of the market, in a small corner building.
You also have the option to buy water.
There’s some information out there recommending tap water for consumption, while others suggest it’s only suitable for brushing teeth or cooking. Personally, based on experiences in other countries, I stick to bottled water. The little shops called kiosks are open late into the night, but in busier areas, you can easily find a 24/7 kiosk. Of course, you can also ask for a bottle of water from the corner Souvlaki chef. By the way, don’t miss out on the local Souvlaki buffets! After that, you’ll look at the (otherwise excellent) Greek dishes in Budapest as mere imitations.
***
You can even swim in the sea. Tomorrow, I’ll look for another beach. One is just like the other. All beautiful. How could one be negative here? Even though the Cypriots have their own tormented history. When the British withdrew from the island – from most of it, the Greek-Turkish conflict emerged.
And the Turks weren’t gentlemen either…
To this day, the island is divided, and it’s still not clear along which border line. So, there’s trouble.
In the southern part – this is the Republic of Cyprus – tourism is thriving; the northern part belongs to Turkey… The capital itself, Nicosia, lies on the border. Imagine it like divided Berlin, with the western half belonging to the European Union…
One of the defining cities in this region is Paphos, where low-cost airlines diligently bring more than a thousand tourists every day. (I didn’t check for exact data at the moment) But it’s unquestionable that you can find flights and accommodation cheaply.
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It’s unquestionable, though, that flights and accommodation are affordable. A round-trip ticket + 3 nights = 80 €.
As for consumption, it’s a different story. The hospitality businesses adjust their prices to the English and Russian guests, not to Central Europe. For example, today I’m paying 25 € for dinner, which includes wine, coffee, complimentary fruit, and a portion of the main course so generous that even a small-eater friend would have had a substantial meal. I have to emphasize that so far, anywhere I’ve eaten or drunk, I couldn’t find anything to complain about on any front. So, the value for money is really good.
***
Speaking of prices, my objective point of comparison is, of course, the castle of fridge magnets. Luxembourg: 5 €; Marseille: 3.5 €; Germany: 3 €; Montenegro: 2.5 €. Cyprus: 1.20 € at the market; on the beach, starting from 2 €. Generally, this subjective comparison illustrates for me how much more expensive one city is compared to the others. However, in Cyprus, things are a bit more nuanced. A Gyros (which is a sandwich the size of a quarter-kilo bread here) is 4.5 €, while in Pest, the more common ones are 3 €. A pint of beer is 3.5 €, while in Pest, it’s 2 € in a similarly prominent place.
***
What I like about the nightlife here is that you can listen to folk music. In Buda, I only stumbled upon such a show half-heartedly. After having the chance to attend a Hungarian folk dance gala, I became a big fan; So, what I’m about to say, pay strong attention to: I’m a fan of Hungarian culture, traditions. However, I formulate it firmly to highlight the difference: I must say – from here, from Cyprus, that here it’s not a reenactment of the past, but the preservation of tradition. In Pest, there’s a fashionable and very sophisticated wine bar in front of the Basilica called Divine. Imagine that at nine in the evening, three artists enter, looking like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. One sits down at the cimbalom, another takes a violin, the third a microphone. And the Hungarian-speaking audience claps and sings until midnight. Of course, there must be similar examples at home, but here, it’s completely commonplace. However, there are also shows for tourists, where professionally dressed dancers entertain and instruct the audience.
I really respect and admire Hungarian folk music and dance! The paragraph above just aimed to illustrate what I experienced in Cyprus – in the elegant party district, every street.
A bit about transportation:
If you’re staying for several days and you’re not as budget-conscious as I am, consider renting a car. Alternatively, plan your itinerary carefully in advance. The schedule for local buses is available online (if I come across it again, I’ll share the link here). Personally, I navigated based on the posters at the bus stations. If I had looked it up at home, I wouldn’t have missed the buses that run every 1-2 hours. I pay the fares of 1.5 – 2.5 euros with cash at the driver. And about delays, please don’t get hung up on them; this is the Mediterranean, the Swiss watches are bored in their drawers here. Don’t worry, the bus will come, just grab a frappé while you wait for the driver :).
***
If I were to rent a car, I’d either do it in advance online through the websites of airlines or accommodation partners, or when I get off the plane and (not right there, of course), as I enter the city, I’d start bargaining with the locals – the small companies. And here’s an extra tip: Call your host in advance; they’re sure to have a relevant acquaintance.
***
Well, now comes the part where I list the important sights. But oh well, Wikipedia has already written about all of these 🙂 I promise, I’ll review my browsing history soon and provide the link that was the most helpful source among the not insignificant amount of information I gathered.
Saturday
It was around nine o’clock when I woke up. I must say, I had a good night’s sleep in the simple bed. By Mediterranean standards, don’t expect to find a thick blanket. It’s unnecessary in a place where the temperature doesn’t drop below ten degrees, even at night.
***
Next stop on the sunset journey towards the sea was Venus Beach.
To the west of the harbor, you’ll find the sandier beaches. One of them is Venus Beach.
I arrived here around one in the afternoon, but not before doing some shopping at the nearby discount store – partly because Venus Beach isn’t a fully equipped beach, and the only option is to rent a sunbed.
So, I laid out my beach towel like a makeshift table: grapes, cheese, fresh bread. The sparkling wine was chilling in the sea, tied to a rock, until sunset.
***
So, if you have a day to spare, take a stroll along the coast!
A good reference point is the city’s main square and the nearby bus station: Kato Paphos and the Harbor bus station. Today, the Harbor station is interesting for us. During the day, there’s an airport bus every hour for 1-5 euros.
Well, let’s hop on another bus here, heading towards Corall Beach. (By the way, if you’re lucky, your airport bus will continue in this direction.) Get off at the Venus Beach stop. On one side, there’s the Venus Hotel, and on the other, a Lidl. You can pop in here to buy yourself a drink, as tap water isn’t always recommended for drinking.
Get off at Venus Beach Hotel and grab some fruits and drinks. If you have the whole weekend, take a 200-meter walk back to the Tombs of the Kings. See where the ancients were buried. If that’s not interesting, I’ll let you in on a secret – the view alone is worth 2.5 euros. Then, take a dip in the water under the hotel – it’s enjoyable even in November.
This beach (among several others) is great because the breakwaters keep the temperamental sea in check. Oh, and it’s secluded enough that the influx of Russian tourists doesn’t stir up the mud.
Crystal clear water!
Sunday
I discovered an incredibly exciting beach. Right there on the shore, where else could it be? 🙂
Not towards the fort and the harbor, but where the hotels begin. So, the first stretch of beach that has a breakwater. Exciting, but not the safest. It’s not where families with children come. The depth is on average only a few feet, making it ideal for swimming, especially because of the breakwaters. However! It’s filled with small and large rocks and holes ranging from 2 to 5 meters deep. No need to fear, as the water isn’t deep, but it adds to the excitement. It was a refreshing change after sunbathing.
***
While waiting for the airport bus, I got one more frappé and picked up a local sweet treat.
Some say frappé is made from instant coffee (plus ice, sugar, milk, blended into a ‘creamy’ mixture). Well, the Harbour Café is proof that this isn’t always the case. The place is located under the corner building at the end of the seaside promenade – at the harbor roundabout.
So, the waiter brewed espresso right in front of me. The only minor flaw was that the version without milk was made with cow’s milk. Instead of getting annoyed, let’s embrace the Mediterranean vibe and let any disturbance be sorted out by Poseidon.
The texture of the dessert reminds me of the socialist era fondant candies. Of course, the lokum is in no way related – only the texture is misleading. As for the taste…
Sweet! Sweeter than a stolen kiss from a bride.