Sanary-sur-Mer
I love it for the light: pastel houses, turquoise sea, vibrant plants. The Advent decorations turn the town into a fairytale setting, with a rich cultural and natural heritage: the neo-Romanesque church of St. Nazaire, the panoramic Golgotha road and the beautiful views of the surrounding mountains all make for an unforgettable experience. Discover the magic of Provence for yourself!
Where are we?
On the southern coast of France, roughly between Marseille and Toulon. This is a former natural fishing port hidden in the hills, so it’s on the shores of a tiny bay surrounded by mountains. You can get here by the coastal motorway; as there can be a lot of tourists, I think it’s worth leaving the car in the car parks on the outskirts and walking for fifteen minutes. You can also take the train from Marseille. I’ve seen local services within the city, for example between the railway and the city centre; I haven’t looked for buses around the city, but I’m sure there are some. I think the 40-minute train ride from Marseille is the most practical option. Of course, the real “spilters” simply drive into town.
History
I found little official information, so I’ll give you a few clichéd sentences. The area has been inhabited since Roman times. Later rulers of the area included the Spanish, Italians, Gauls and French. But if you were to ask the local elders, they would probably tell you that they are Provençal people who have made their living from fishing for centuries and who today, remembering their Provençal roots and fishing, are successfully attracting tourists.
What do tourist publications recommend?
Tour de Sanary
I won’t even say it’s located in the port, because almost all the main attractions are there. It was once used for defence purposes, I think it looks more like a large bastion where today you can see an archaeological display. It’s interesting because it’s not just pottery found while scraping, but also artefacts recovered from underwater. Also, because it is on a high point, it offers a beautiful view. Currently, admission is free.
However, be careful with the prices, because it is not for the ‘cheap traveller’ either. An ingenious backpacker, however, will find himself exploring the natural beaches, supermarkets or accommodation in the surrounding villages.
Markets
There is a flea market every day on the coastal promenade. I recommend you consider them a living ethnographic museum.
Narrow streets
It’s a familiar sight for me, but I’m still fascinated: narrow streets, pastel walls, some frescoes, typical floor-to-ceiling windows, fountains with shady trees. Although now full of shops and services, they still retain their romantic atmosphere.
Church of St. Nazaire
As it turns out, this church is less than two hundred years old. At first I thought I was in a beautifully restored Romanesque church with Gothic rose windows. I was not far wrong: it is a neo-Romanesque church. For its size, the organ is indeed impressive, but it’s the many high-quality frescoes that catch the eye.
Golgotha Street
This is a ten-minute walk that starts from the harbour and leads up the hill along a panoramic path. Along the way you can see beautiful palaces and flowering gardens.
Chapel of Notre-Dame de Pitié
This chapel at the top of the Golgotha crossroads is nearly five hundred years old. I also saw a beautiful altar of Bethlehem in it. It is an important place for fishermen, because the hermits who used to live here
used to gather information about the sea to help sailors.
The harbour and its ships
The harbour is home to small historic boats dating back hundreds of years.
Le Massif de Gros Cerveau
One of the peaks of the mountains around the town is four hundred and twenty-nine metres high. At the top is a fortress. These twenty-kilometre hikes are interesting not only for the spectacular views but also for the varied flora.
Urban gardens
Next to the coastal promenade is a lovely resting place: the former laundry house has been filled with water, which flows into a fountain. There are several of these small gardens in the city.
Beaches
The beaches are beautiful, with water in every shade of turquoise and blue. The sandy, family beaches are more in the neighbouring village, within walking distance.
What did I look at?
First, the beach. The tiny harbour is a bit like walking into a museum, especially after sunset, when it takes on a fairytale atmosphere thanks to the light decorations. The architectural harmony of the town and the intergenerational urban planning gave me the feeling that maybe Paradise could be like that.
Why am I coming back?
For the colours. The pastel houses and vibrant greenery, and the sight of the turquoise sea, make the place really romantic.
Sanary-sur-Mer, 7 December 2024.
