Sunday in Perpignan: Moments of a Journey
Travel often brings unexpected experiences and contrasts. The city of Perpignan offers natural beauty, cultural treasures, and occasionally puzzling encounters. This personal account reflects a day filled with discoveries, challenges, and unique moments that make every journey unforgettable.
Even I surprised myself by booking the accommodation last night. It would have been a good idea to check the bus schedules too, but in this village, public transport isn’t exactly a priority. So, I took my scooter to the police station and then an Intercity train from Arles to Narbonne. (The Intercity isn’t the fastest, but it’s the most comfortable option; the truly fast choice would be the TGV.)
I had an hour to wait before the Perpignan train departed. I found a roundabout with a park in its center and spent some time there. At a newsstand, I finally came across the latest issue of Playboy magazine. Interestingly, the original Playboy was shut down years ago by its parent company, perhaps because it couldn’t break free from objectifying women and failed to reinvent itself. What had made the magazine valuable were its highly regarded journalists and editors.
Now, a Parisian publisher has bought the rights to the brand name and is trying to redefine it while keeping the principle of working only with renowned artists. It was odd to see a nearly naked man on the cover—a famous sculptor, no less.
The train ride to Perpignan offered breathtaking views: salt marshes, flamingos, mountains, and a silvery bridge over the cloudy sea stretched out on either side. When I arrived, palm trees lined the roads. You can immediately feel the Mediterranean vibe here—after all, Barcelona is closer than Montpellier, and the Spanish border is only thirty kilometers away.
My large backpack was more comfortable than I expected, which was fortunate since I had a leisurely afternoon ahead of me. Perpignan is a pleasant little town, and it was a surprise to find a shop open on a Sunday. I bought a bottle of orange juice and a bag of sausages for a snack. Here, these small, bite-sized sausages are as common as chips or candy. The orange juice, however, had an unexpected effect on me, and I found myself rushing up the hill to the fortress faster than ever before. At that moment, the stunning panorama from the fortress walls was the least of my concerns.
Later, I returned to explore the partially Renaissance fortress. As usual, the beautiful chapels left me in awe, but the two exhibition spaces were also worth a visit. One room featured an immersive 3D animation about the city’s history, projected onto all six walls in perfect synchronization, creating a strong sense of space. The other room showcased framed graphic artworks. While I’m not a fan of this style, I had to admit the images had a nice atmosphere. From the fortress tower, you could see all the way to the sea, twelve kilometers away.
I had been toying with the idea of going to the beach since morning, even if just to dip my feet in the water. A local bus would have taken me there in forty minutes, but I forgot about the time change, and the sun was already setting earlier than expected. So, I gave up on the beach and headed to my accommodation instead. It turned out to be a lucky find—clean, well-maintained, and I had a six-bed dormitory all to myself. Off-season travel has its perks.
In the evening, I went for a walk in the fresh air before ending up at a bistro. A poster announced karaoke nights every Sunday. The atmosphere was lively, with people singing in English, Italian, Spanish, and mostly French. It was a delightful experience—until a drunk woman started accusing me of wearing her friend’s lost coat. They had been sitting next to me at the counter until a pushy man moved their coats a few meters away. I didn’t wait for the confrontation to escalate into a full-blown argument; I paid and left, pointing out to the woman that the coats were on a nearby table. She didn’t listen—her mind was already foggy.
Since my arrival, I’ve felt somewhat uneasy in this city, surrounded by its strange gazes. It seems that wealth and education haven’t been evenly distributed here, despite Perpignan’s rich cultural heritage.
Perpignan, October 27, 2024, Sunday.
